As I walk back from my half hearted Saturday morning run I see the woman standing at the corner of the Mantralaya intersection, selling thin pieces of steel wire pierced through green chillies and limes. She sells these every Saturday to passing motorists, to ward off the evil eye. It explains why Mumbai has so few accidents.
She just gave birth a few months ago and the baby is fast asleep in the sari which she has strung between two lampposts. When we first came here seven years ago her first born, Rakesh, slept like that in a sari. Now on weekends he darts between cars, buying something for his mother or the baby. Rakesh does go to school, his mother says, but she seems unsure where it is. When holding one of the coloring pencils that we gave him, he seems unsure, or out of practice. A shop along Marine Drive was advertising apro nachos, 'our' nachos in Gujarati. I think fusion cuisine just went a step too far. My wife tells me that she couldn't sleep most of the night because of the pounding of concrete pillars into the ground by Mumbai metro, not 100 meters from our house. Strange. I slept the way I always sleep, flat on my back, hands folded across my chest, corpse style. Mumbai is building a metro from Colaba in the south to SEEPZ in the north, running right across the city, uprooting trees and buildings. Once done it will do good for the environment, right now not so much. The next song starts on my iPhone, I'm trying to remember who the artist is, but I recognize the production. I remember just in time, before his raspiness starts singing. It's Dylan, from the 3rd generation iPod ads, 'if it keep on raining the levee gonna break'.
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October 2022
Btw, the banner photo was taken from our holiday home outside of San Gimignano at 6.20 am. What light! It lasted all of five minutes.
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